Kotagiri, the gem of the Nilgiris

COVID 19 has changed the normal course of life forever and the world will never be the same again. After spending close to one and a half years holed up inside the safety of our houses, I sometimes find it hard to remember the rush and excitement of travelling and the wanderlust that I had been satisfying for all these years. Yet, as counter intuitive as it may seem, it is those very memories of impromptu trips, surprisingly beautiful places and memorable encounters that keep this spirit of adventure alive in these trying times. With this intent, I will be spending the next couple of blog posts, recounting, reliving and penning down the experiences and travel memoirs of these erstwhile trips.

An opportunity to visit the Nilgiris came in the form of a wedding invite of a close friend of my husband Siddharth. Fed up by the sweltering heat and humidity of Delhi, we were only more than happy to board the flight to Coimbatore; all the while being excited about catching up with old friends and new. When we reached the airport in Coimbatore, we boarded a taxi to head to Kotagiri, the venue for the event and our abode for the next few days.

Kotagiri
Spot the bison among st the tea garden!

As our cab ferried along the winding roads, making its way up the blue hills, I was pleasantly surprised and marveled at the verdant greenery around, the sort of bright fresh bright green that springs after an abundant monsoon. Nestled in the blue mountains, at a distance of apx. 70 kms from Coimbatore, Kotagiri was such a revelation! Unlike its popular cousins, Ooty & Connoor, the quaint little town is a treasure trove of nature, surrounded by hills, floating clouds, tea plantations, deciduous forests and lip smacking local cuisine. For me, it was love at first sight!

We reached our guest house, freshened up and spent the first night enjoying cocktails, hearty chicken cutlets, amazing music and catching up with the bride, groom and friends, before the D Day.

View from the guest house.

The next day, our small group of friends decided to explore the surroundings and took a day tour of the town and the area. It was an ideal rejuvenating break from the urban humdrum of the city. The gentle raindrops and the cool climate only added to the joy. Post our exploration, we enjoyed lunch in a restaurant overlooking a beautiful lake in the midst of a private plantation.

The restaurant within the private tea estate.

Colonial Charm

History has it that Kotagiri was discovered by 2 British officers in 1819. John Sullivan was the most famous European settler of the region, introducing horticulture and working with the locals for the economic development of the region. A visit to John Sullivan’s Pethakkal Bungalow, which has now been converted to a museum, offers rare photographs of the indigenous people and their native crafts.

Tea country

Kotagiri is a tea lover’s delight. The tranquil plantations reminded me of my home state Assam. We took a leisure stroll amongst the tea gardens and visited one of the many tea factories, open to visitors. In fact, many of the tea estates belong to late CM of Tamil Nadu, J Jayalalithaa who was also known to have owned a palatial bungalow amidst the gardens.

Nature at its best

From St. Chatherine’s Falls, a double cascading waterfall, Longwood Shola, a small forest reserve to Kodanand viewpoint, which offers the most stunning vantage point for tea plantations, hill tops and floating clouds, nature revels in its best in Kotagiri.

Local culture and people

The Nilgiris belong to the indigenous tribes of the region namely the Todas, Badagas, Irulas, Kotas and Kurumbas. We also relished some mountain specialties like plum cakes, specialty teas and varkey available in the little bakeries near Johnston Square. There are also abundant stores for local handicrafts, including Toda tribal-embroidered shawls, stoles, niche pottery, gourmet homemade chocolates, handmade soaps etc. to bring home a souvenir.

The best part of the trip were the trip were the people! We were very lucky to be able to witness the beautiful wedding rituals of the Toda community, partake in their celebrations, relish super yummy local cuisine and dance our hearts out to thumping beats. I found a gem in the Nilgiris and given a chance,I would go back any day. Wouldn’t you?

Traditional tribal hut

Wedding shenanigans



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